Off road Landcruiser with a far too large camshaft through a shift kitted 4 speed toyota auto. Unknown camshaft size.
I entered my new Drag car for the Holden vs Ford Drag racing event on the Anzac long weekend. As it’s a new car and still requiring Tech inspection, I wasn’t able to do too many quick runs, but for it’s 2nd event debut I am extremely happy with it’s progress.
I had someone from a local car forum I’m on ask me about taking a look at his civic which he races regularly at Wanneroo Raceway as he wasn’t happy with a recent tune-up after a cam swap.
So with some spare time on my hands today we put it on the dyno. What was apparent straight away was the car was running extremely rich from idle until “VTEC” was activated around 6000k rpm & was lacking in power at all rpm’s below.
Considering this is the first time I’ve ever done one of these motors/ecu combo’s & it only took a few short hours to sort out. We got some pretty good gains below the vtec change over point along with gains in fuel economy both at wide open throttle and normal throttle points.
I spent some more time this weekend playing with the Cruze on the dyno again after installing a de-cat pipe along with the bigger injectors for running E85.
With the new pipe in, exhaust note & noise is still the same. At least within the car.
Tuning wise it seems to have helped improve the power in the top end from fading, even though boost is still dropping away.
With the LSM11 wideband sensors becoming quite costly and very outdated compared to the latest Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors, I decided to replace the factory Dyno Dynamics (Autronic) wideband with an ALM-LED that has both analog and serial output (along with a couple of inputs if required).
As such with a bit of digging and tracing the wires, the below information might come in handy for some one else looking to do the same. I simply made up a male DB9 connector to match the existing autronic cable from the dyno. I originally planned to replace the round connector at the dyno controller, but after ordering the wrong “AMP” connector size I went with the DB9 connector instead.
Original Autronic Wideband Connector Wiring:
Cable Colour – DB9 PIN # – Round Connector Pin # – Usage
Green – Pin 1,2 DB9 – Pin 1 – Power Ground
Brown – Pin 4 DB9 – Pin 4 – Sensor Ground
Red – Pin 5 DB9 – Pin 5 – 0-5V from Wideband to Dyno
Yellow – Pin 8 DB9 – Pin 8 – 0-1V output
White – Pin 6/7 DB9 – Pin 6 – 16v Supply from Dyno
Dyno software will either need to modified to suite a 10-20afr range if that’s what your wideband uses by default or you need to program your widebands analog output to the standard 10-30 afr range the Autronic uses.
With the new wideband sensor being able to read much leaner mixtures, the lambda value on the led display is pretty high. But testing on a car proved to be dead on accurate from the digital to analog lambda value.
With Mon5ta currently getting an over due freshen up after years of abuse to the driveline. Owner/Driver Matt has decided to debut his new blown setup on another car.
With another stock ls1 motor with a suspected vcm-7 camshaft (232/234@112) and 6/71 blower setup by Nelg’s Alloy Mods slid into place of a previous factory v6 vy commodore. We finally hit the dyno for an initial tune up today and too see what bugs might be thrown at us on the new combo.
Apart from a stuffed wideband cable to delay tuning for 30 minutes, everything went rather smoothly with an initial power run of 470rwhp with a very safe 9 degrees of timing on E85 & 0.82 lambda thanks to it’s maximum 7.5psi of boost.
With a couple of tuning adjustments to fuel & timing, it was decided to leave the car at a maximum of 520rwhp & 6300rpm limiter for it’s initial tune up.
We will more than likely look into a water/meth injection kit to assist with keeping the air temps in check for long duration burnout’s rather then running injectors within the hat.
With over 16k km’s on the motor now, I thought I would have do a quick check of the power output to see how it’s going. I also flashed in the original factory tune so as to have a true comparison with the same temperature/day.
As can be seen, the tune is still making a solid 30whp more today than the factory tune and a solid 310lb more of tractive effort to the wheels below 3800rpm.
Mon5ta owner Matthew took his LS1 Mazda ute to the Norwest Nats on October 11th for what’s hoped to be an inaugural event.
Matt managed to drive away with the Win for Naturally Aspirated V8 & 2nd overall for the competition.
The car will do a few more events before it finally goes “offline” to gets it’s new 6/71 Blower combo, In the mean time he will be debuting another dedicated burnout car, this time utilising a Manual T56 gearbox.
While probably not in the right order in the tuning blog I thought it relevant to post the results from my injector upgrade on the Cruze running standard 98 octane petrol.
The main reason for tuning the bigger injectors on 98 is I’m hoping to find the relevant pin on the ecu that will allow for flex fuel support, What this means is that I can fill up the car with any amount of ethanol or petrol and the ECU will automatically adjust the fuelling to suit, But in order to do so I need a baseline fuel & timing map to start with.
Next job is to work out the ethanol pin on the ecu. if there is one that is & possibly some cam timing adjustment.