Riley came in with his lift kitted & big tyre’d Colorado on the weekend to get his transmission looked at & ecu re-calibrated. The car had been suffering from what can only be explained as a stuttering/false neutral shift between gears since shortly after purchase.
I quickly diagnosed it as a low fluid problem as the Commodores platform has a similar issue on hard launches when the fluid moves to the back of the pan. With the tran’s dip stick removed it was evident that it was very low.
The good news is with an additional 2lt’s of Dex6 fluid added & a reset of the transmission adapts, the hesitation was now gone.
So a word of warning, If you are experiencing any funky shift changes in your 6L45/6L80/6l90e transmission equipped cars & you have a dipstick. Check the fluid level. Don’t rely on someone else checking it for you.
As for Riley’s ecu tune? Switchable tunes with stock 137whp to 174 for max power on the 33” tyres sound?
Another Colorado I tuned recently was Pete’s Colorado 7. He arrived with caravan in tow (all 3ton of it) With it unhooked it was on to the dyno for a couple of baseline pull’s before the tuning started.
The car already had a full 3″ exhaust system, So it had a decent starting point. However with the engine ecu & transmission calibration adjusted he & his wife were on their way for another caravaning adventure.
A couple of days later he let me know that on this trip they used half the amount of fuel it normally used for the same route & towing was a breeze.
A friend from the country (Moora) came for a drive to the big smoke this weekend for a maf tune on his ute after having already fitted extractors, exhaust and then getting the dreaded check engine light from the now out of factory spec exhaust gases.
With the car strapped to the dyno, the car made a best of 302.9hp from the 3 factory tune dyno pulls with the car riding the low octane spark map the entire time.
Then it was time to fit the new OTR & infill panels & adjust the tune to suit.
The car seemed a little low on power compared to previous 6lt motors I’ve tuned, so the question was asked, “what fuel is in this?”
“Just plain unleaded”
ha, right, that would explain it then.
Regardless of the lower octane fuel, we still made a nice healthy 48whp gain as can be seen by the dyno sheet.
Once the car is filled up with some 98 octane fuel the car will start to learn towards the higher octane spark map and pick up some more hp.
It’s been a couple of weeks since the Racewars 2017 event in Albany & boy was it a great weekend.
Along with my dad & brother we had 3 cars entered, They were:
VE SS A6 with Cam’d & Magnacharge’d 2300 – My Dad’s
VE SS M6 – 402ci LS2/ETP Heads & Harrop 2300 – Brothers
VX Drag Car – 410ci Twin Turbo/TH400 – Mine
My Dad’s car performed flawlessly all weekend & became the stand in when my brothers car died, but there was still a decent photo taken of them together before it did, lol.
Now with my brothers car, about the 4th or 5th run on the saturday the engine developed a severe miss and shake when running, after pulling the plugs out and finding 1 of them severely damaged (Cylinder 2) we put it on the trailer.
We didn’t know how bad the damage was going to be until we got it back home and pulled the heads off anyway.
However during the weeks since racewars & between working on it, it was mentioned online that during cleanup the racewars crew had picked up the head of a valve albeit squashed and bent off the runway.
Considering the state of the plug, we were pretty certain it was “ours” & then as sure night comes after day, That’s exactly what we found when we pulled the head off the drivers side. Valve stems still in place by the new springs at least…
Wait a minute, something doesn’t look right….Along with the combustion chamber for that cylinder, the piston had taken a beating. Luckily the bore doesn’t looked to have sustained any major damage, but we haven’t gotten the block off for machining/honing for the new pistons yet so the verdict on the block is unknown.
The annoying thing about all this, is before the event I had just spent a bunch of money on the new valve springs/seats/retainers as the old springs had been on for nearly 8 years or so & since the motor is mine it had been used in 2 of my previous car’s so it was well over due for freshen up.
The pistons i don’t really care about as we had already planned on changing them out after racewars anyway.
So with saturday kinda starting out pretty shit with my brothers car & me originally only planning on doing limited runs in my drag car to save it for the 1000m stuff. I ended up using it a lot more with some passenger rides & testing for the 1000m.
With my brother in the car for a couple of 800m roll-on’s we hit a high 292 & 298 so i was pretty confident of going over 300kph on the sunday. My “idea/plan” leading up to racewars was to get my 300 or more and then put it straight on the trailer, that way i wouldn’t be getting “greedy” with it especially since i still needed the car to compete at another drag racing event on the 22nd of April (3 days away as i write this).
On the Sunday for the 1000m standing starts & with the passenger seat removed the car seemed worse for traction especially for the first 300 meters, I was having to get off or feather the throttle but the 1st run got another 298kph at-least.
Thankfully the 2nd run at 2:29pm got slightly quicker at 302.58kph & with that it went straight on to the trailer.
That is.. When i made it back to the pits… as my battery had gone flat on the return road with the fans on. As it turns out my alternator even before the event had started to show signs of being on the way out.
1 run fueling would be leaner then what i was commanding in the tune, the next run it would be fine or richer. So i started logging the ecu battery voltage and sure enough the voltage wasn’t consistent.
So i have now put in a new alternator and ran a new sense wire all the way to the battery in the rear & I have 14.6 volts at the battery with the car running vs 12.3v previously which is no good for my fuel pumps & the tune!
Obviously it would worsen depending on how long the car was running for, which at the Motorplex isn’t really that long at each event, but the 8-10 minute drive back through the dirt at Albany was a bit too long to be driving all the electrics.
Anyway I hope you enjoyed reading & watching my sum-what summarized view of the weekend from a racer’s perspective. We’ll be back in Albany again next year with hopefully a couple more of our own 300+kph capable car’s…
Went out for some testing during the week with the new gearbox/converter & diff gears in my drag car.
Still launching without the 2 step & trans brake.
5 runs in total with 2 being low 9’s for the warm up run & then a shutdown when it got a bit skate.
3 best runs were: 8.963 @ 249.63kph (17psi) 8.826 @ 252.95kph (17psi) 8.697 @ 257.37kph (20psi)
Drag car still runs stock IRS with a Harrop Enduro cover/gforce1320 stub axles & stock driveshafts & was doing consistent 1.4 – 60’s all night.
Looking forward to changing the diff out for Motul Racewars 2017 to see if it will crack the 300kph mark over the standing 1km & maybe even take out Cash Days 1/8 Mile Racing
After test driving my own tuned 2017 Model Colorado with some towing duties, my Dad decided he needed to upgrade from his ZD30 Patrol too, So he went out & purchased a run out 2016 Model before Christmas & so I spent some time on Christmas eve on the dyno.
With just under 100km’s on the clock it was loaded onto the dyno for a couple of baseline pulls before flashing in my new calibration. Power is slightly lower compared to mine but that’s probably due to some slight hardware changes between the years. (mentioned futher below)
So what sold my dad on the Colorado over his existing Patrol? well he simply put a caravan on the back of my car and drove the same hill with a decent grade and noted the speed & throttle difference.
The patrol needed 3rd gear and was maxed out at 65kph with the pedal on the floor. The Colorado? well it did it in 4th gear(auto) & he was having to back off at 85kph so as not to break the speed limit. A pretty convincing test for him.
The main hardware difference between the new 17 model is a 2.75~3″ exhaust stock compared to 2.25~2.5″ for the 16. However the 17 model get’s a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) after the catalytic converter (which is easily removed and tuned around).
Along with the new engine ecu calibration, I also have a new transmission calibration better suited to towing also loaded in.
Tune up of my old motor/blower combo in my brothers VE Commodore, running a TR6060 Gearbox with a 3.27 ratio diff for Racewars 2017. Boost drops from 5400rpm (max is 14psi), but with 640rwhp @ 4800rpm she’s a monster!
My own ve ute which I’ve finally got around to running up on the dyno.
Car has a cam in the low 230’s and Harrop FDFI 2300 running 9psi through a Circle’d 3600rpm triple plate converter, still on Pump 98 octane. It runs 10.5’s @ 128mph